"I want to leave beauty and inspiration and thought-provoking ideology."

    About This Interview

    In her six-hour interview, Ane Crabtree talks about her childhood in Kentucky and her early interest in art, fashion, and design. She discusses studying fashion and leaving school to work for designer Miriam Klein in New York. She describes how she transitioned from the fashion world to costume design and talks about her early jobs working on music videos and projects for Japanese and Chinese television. Crabtree then talks about her first union costume design job in the U.S. -- on the show Swift Justice. She shares how she became the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos, and talks about the research she conducted for the show and memorable looks she selected for "Tony Soprano" and "Dr. Melfi." She recalls her work as costume designer on season one of Justified, and details her work as costume designer for the first two seasons of The Handmaid's Tale -- outlining her choices for the Handmaids, Commanders and their wives, Aunts, Guardians, Econopeople, and the Unwomen. She discusses how she felt when costumes similar to those she designed for the show began to be worn at political protests, and what it means to her to have Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale in the Smithsonian. Crabtree then discusses her work on Pan Am, the first season of Rectify, the first two seasons of Masters of Sex, and season one of Westworld. She concludes with remarks on the role of a costume designer and the fight for pay equity for costume designers, and on how the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted production. She also speaks about her designs for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas, and offers advice to aspiring costume designers. Adrienne Faillace conducted the interview on March 13, 2023 in La Canada Flintridge, CA.

    All views expressed by interviewees are theirs alone and not necessarily those of the Television Academy.
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on costume design for Timothy Olyphant's character on Justified

    04:53
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on designing for and working with Michael Sheen (who played "William Masters") on Masters of Sex

    01:04
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale

    04:48
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26
    Thumbnail of Ane Crabtree

    Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer

    06:09
    Play Full Interview

    Chapter 1

    On her childhood in Kentucky; on her interests when she was growing up; on television shows she watched as a kid; on her early interest in fashion; on being a shy child; on the first clothing items she ever made -- clogs made out of milk cartons -- thanks to how-to instructions from Captain Kangaroo

    23:22

    On wanting to study fashion in college; on attending the University of Evansville and studying in England; on moving to New York, studying fashion design at FIT, and leaving school to work for designer Miriam Klein

    14:35

    On transitioning from fashion to costume design; on being a freelance stylist and working for Elle; on her start in television - working in music videos and for Japanese and Chinese television; on her first union job in U.S. television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job; on how the pace of working in fashion compared to working in television

    10:37

    On becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos; on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos; on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office; on collaborating with other departments to finalize costume designs for the pilot of The Sopranos; on her first meeting with James Gandolfini; on what happens during fittings with actors; on "Tony Soprano's" robe; on David Chase directing the pilot and what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director; on how working on The Sopranos pilot impacted her career

    41:38

    Chapter 2

    On her work as costume designer of season one of Justified; on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects

    20:44

    On her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively

    09:59

    On her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale; on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show; on how she first got involved with the show; on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders; on some of the inspirations for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale

    46:28

    Chapter 3

    On additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale -- wanting to give the Commanders' wives something special; on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale; on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively; on the obi in the Handmaids' costumes

    16:48

    On additional elements of Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale -- wings, cape, boots, and winter and summer versions of the costumes; on costume designs for season two of The Handmaid's Tale -- her inspiration for the Unwomen and the Econopeople

    22:23

    On how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests; on speaking at the United Nations in relation to her work on The Handmaid's Tale and her own personal journey as a survivor; on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian

    31:16

    Chapter 4

    On costume design for Pan Am, which was set in 1963 -- on her research for the costumes, making a lot of costumes herself, period-accurate undergarments, and how budgets impact her work; on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows

    17:17

    On her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify; on her parents visiting the set

    10:26

    On her work as costume designer on Masters of Sex; on research for the show; on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford; on designing for and working with Michael Sheen and Allison Janney; on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex

    16:48

    On how she became the costume designer for season one of Westworld; on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character; on "Dolores'" two main looks and a third that never saw the light of day; on Delos headquarters in Westworld and what it meant to her to design Samurai costumes

    19:57

    Chapter 5

    On the role of a costume designer; on the fight for pay equity for costume designers; on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production

    25:52

    On her then-current project: designing for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas

    06:41

    On working on dystopian and utopian projects; on how television has changed since she first started in the industry; on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews

    15:37

    On advice to aspiring costume designers; on the value of oral histories; on where she sees herself in ten years

    26:01

    Captain Kangaroo

    Ane Crabtree on the first clothing items she ever made -- clogs made out of milk cartons -- thanks to how-to instructions from Captain Kangaroo

    01:20

    Handmaid's Tale, The

    Ane Crabtree on her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale

    01:33

    Ane Crabtree on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show

    06:52

    Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale

    05:30

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders

    12:50

    Ane Crabtree on some of the inspirations for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale

    19:30

    Ane Crabtree on additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale -- wanting to give the Commanders' wives something special

    02:33

    Ane Crabtree on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale

    02:09

    Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale

    04:48

    Ane Crabtree on the obi in the Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale

    07:16

    Ane Crabtree on additional elements of Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale -- wings, cape, boots, and winter and summer versions of the costumes

    04:01

    Ane Crabtree on costume designs for season two of The Handmaid's Tale -- her inspiration for the Unwomen

    13:24

    Ane Crabtree on costume designs for the Econopeople in season two of The Handmaid's Tale

    04:57

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Ane Crabtree on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian

    10:04

    Justified

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer of season one of Justified

    14:41

    Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects

    06:02

    Luck

    Ane Crabtree on Michael Mann sending her to research gamblers for her work on Luck

    00:50

    Masters of Sex

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on Masters of Sex

    09:00

    Ane Crabtree on her research for Masters of Sex

    01:12

    Ane Crabtree on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex

    06:36

    Pan Am

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am

    08:40

    Ane Crabtree on making a lot of costumes for Pan Am herself

    01:01

    Ane Crabtree on period-accurate undergarments on Pan Am

    01:21

    Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces

    03:10

    Rectify

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify

    10:26

    Sopranos, The

    Ane Crabtree on becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos

    04:04

    Ane Crabtree on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos

    06:16

    Ane Crabtree on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office

    05:35

    Ane Crabtree on collaborating with other departments to finalize costume designs for the pilot of The Sopranos

    04:08

    Ane Crabtree on her first meeting with James Gandolfini for The Sopranos

    02:32

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04

    Ane Crabtree on David Chase directing The Sopranos pilot

    01:58

    Ane Crabtree on how working on The Sopranos pilot impacted her career

    03:44

    Swift Justice

    Ane Crabtree on her first union job as a costume designer in television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job

    02:08

    Ane Crabtree on the pace of working on Swift Justice

    02:56

    Westworld

    Ane Crabtree on how she became the costume designer for season one of Westworld

    05:10

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26

    Ane Crabtree on "Dolores'" two main looks on Westworld, and a third that never saw the light of day

    03:59

    Ane Crabtree on Delos headquarters in Westworld and what it meant to her to design Samurai costumes

    04:19

    Advice

    Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin

    15:52

    Classic TV Series Episodes

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04

    COVID-19 Pandemic

    Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production

    09:55

    Drama

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04

    Health and Medicine

    Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production

    09:55

    Historic Events and Social Change

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders

    12:50

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am and researching JFK's death

    03:12

    Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production

    09:55

    Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews

    07:40

    JFK Assassination and Funeral

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am and researching JFK's death

    03:12

    Memorable Moments on Television

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26

    MeToo Movement

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Pivotal Career Moments

    Ane Crabtree on her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale

    01:33

    Pop Culture

    Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

    03:04

    Representation on Television

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders

    12:50

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews

    07:40

    Television Industry

    Ane Crabtree on how television has changed since she first started in the industry

    06:20

    Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews

    07:41

    Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin

    15:52

    Underrepresented Voices

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews

    07:40

    Women

    Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders

    12:50

    Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    21:12

    Costume Designer

    Ane Crabtree on what happens during costume fittings with actors

    05:09

    Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director

    04:02

    Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos

    01:39

    Ane Crabtree on her early interest in costume and fashion design

    04:06

    Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects

    06:03

    Ane Crabtree on her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively

    09:58

    Ane Crabtree on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows

    03:03

    Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces

    03:10

    Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer

    06:09

    Ane Crabtree on the fight for pay equity for costume designers

    09:26

    Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin

    15:50

    Designers

    Ane Crabtree on what happens during costume fittings with actors

    05:09

    Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director

    04:02

    Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos

    01:39

    Ane Crabtree on her early interest in costume and fashion design

    04:06

    Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects

    06:03

    Ane Crabtree on her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively

    09:58

    Ane Crabtree on how she decompresses after emotionally taxing work -- getting away during filming of The Handmaid's Tale

    01:47

    Ane Crabtree on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows

    03:03

    Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces

    03:10

    Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer

    06:09

    Ane Crabtree on the fight for pay equity for costume designers

    09:26

    Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin

    15:50

    Directors

    Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director

    04:02

    Drama Series

    Ane Crabtree on her first union job as a costume designer in television -- Swift Justice

    02:08

    Ane Crabtree on her work as the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos;

    41:38

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer of season one of Justified

    20:44

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on seasons one and two of The Handmaid's Tale

    46:28

    Ane Crabtree on additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale, her designs for season two of the show, how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests

    01:10:29

    Ane Crabtree on costume design for Pan Am, which was set in 1963

    14:12

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify, and on her parents visiting the set

    10:26

    Ane Crabtree on costume design for Masters of Sex; on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex

    16:48

    Sci-Fi/Supernatural Series

    Ane Crabtree on costume designs for season one of Westworld

    19:56

    Darren Aronofsky

    Ane Crabtree on her then-current project: designing for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas

    06:41

    Beatrice Arthur

    Ane Crabtree on Bea Arthur being an inspiration for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale

    10:51

    Michelle Ashford

    Ane Crabtree on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford about designing for Masters of Sex and why she wanted to work on the show

    01:40

    Ane Crabtree on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford to create original pieces that would enhance the story for Masters of Sex

    02:00

    Margaret Atwood

    Ane Crabtree on a beautiful moment on The Handmaid's Tale: dressing Magaret Atwood as an Aunt on the show, and Margaret's response to her costume

    02:06

    Lorraine Bracco

    Ane Crabtree on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office

    05:35

    Madeline Brewer

    Ane Crabtree on working with Madeline Brewer (who played "Janine") on The Handmaid's Tale

    01:17

    David Chase

    Ane Crabtree on meeting with David Chase and becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos

    04:04

    Ane Crabtree on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos

    06:16

    Ane Crabtree on David Chase directing The Sopranos pilot

    01:58

    James Gandolfini

    Ane Crabtree on her first meeting with James Gandolfini for The Sopranos

    02:32

    Walton Goggins

    Ane Crabtree on costume design for Walton Goggins' character on Justified

    01:39

    Allison Janney

    Ane Crabtree on designing for Allison Janney on Masters of Sex

    01:26

    Lisa Joy

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26

    Don Kurt

    Ane Crabtree on her first union job in television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job

    02:08

    Ane Crabtree on Don Kurt hiring her to work on Justified and on her approach to the show

    06:18

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify and working with Don Kurt and Ray McKinnon

    05:10

    Warren Littlefield

    Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale - via Bruce Miller and Warren Littlefield

    05:30

    Michael Mann

    Ane Crabtree on Michael Mann sending her to research gamblers for her work on Luck

    00:50

    Ray McKinnon

    Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify and working with Don Kurt and Ray McKinnon

    05:10

    Bruce Miller

    Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale - via Bruce Miller and Warren Littlefield

    05:30

    Reed Morano

    Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale

    04:48

    Elisabeth Moss

    Ane Crabtree on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show

    06:52

    Ane Crabtree on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian

    10:04

    Jonathan Nolan

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26

    Timothy Olyphant

    Ane Crabtree on costume design for Timothy Olyphant's character on Justified

    04:53

    Alik Sakharov

    Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos

    01:39

    Michael Sheen

    Ane Crabtree on designing for and working with Michael Sheen (who played "William Masters") on Masters of Sex

    01:04

    Jimmi Simpson

    Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

    06:26

    Yvonne Strahovski

    Ane Crabtree on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale

    02:09

    Evan Rachel Wood

    Ane Crabtree on "Dolores'" two main looks on Westworld, and a third that never saw the light of day

    03:59

    All Interviews

    Loading Interviews...