About
"I want to leave beauty and inspiration and thought-provoking ideology."
In her six-hour interview, Ane Crabtree talks about her childhood in Kentucky and her early interest in art, fashion, and design. She discusses studying fashion and leaving school to work for designer Miriam Klein in New York. She describes how she transitioned from the fashion world to costume design and talks about her early jobs working on music videos and projects for Japanese and Chinese television. Crabtree then talks about her first union costume design job in the U.S. -- on the show Swift Justice. She shares how she became the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos, and talks about the research she conducted for the show and memorable looks she selected for "Tony Soprano" and "Dr. Melfi." She recalls her work as costume designer on season one of Justified, and details her work as costume designer for the first two seasons of The Handmaid's Tale -- outlining her choices for the Handmaids, Commanders and their wives, Aunts, Guardians, Econopeople, and the Unwomen. She discusses how she felt when costumes similar to those she designed for the show began to be worn at political protests, and what it means to her to have Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale in the Smithsonian. Crabtree then discusses her work on Pan Am, the first season of Rectify, the first two seasons of Masters of Sex, and season one of Westworld. She concludes with remarks on the role of a costume designer and the fight for pay equity for costume designers, and on how the COVID-19 pandemic has impacted production. She also speaks about her designs for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas, and offers advice to aspiring costume designers. Adrienne Faillace conducted the interview on March 13, 2023 in La Canada Flintridge, CA.
Highlights

Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks

Ane Crabtree on costume design for Timothy Olyphant's character on Justified

Ane Crabtree on designing for and working with Michael Sheen (who played "William Masters") on Masters of Sex

Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale

Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character

Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer
Full Interview
Chapter 1
On her childhood in Kentucky; on her interests when she was growing up; on television shows she watched as a kid; on her early interest in fashion; on being a shy child; on the first clothing items she ever made -- clogs made out of milk cartons -- thanks to how-to instructions from Captain Kangaroo
On wanting to study fashion in college; on attending the University of Evansville and studying in England; on moving to New York, studying fashion design at FIT, and leaving school to work for designer Miriam Klein
On transitioning from fashion to costume design; on being a freelance stylist and working for Elle; on her start in television - working in music videos and for Japanese and Chinese television; on her first union job in U.S. television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job; on how the pace of working in fashion compared to working in television
On becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos; on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos; on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office; on collaborating with other departments to finalize costume designs for the pilot of The Sopranos; on her first meeting with James Gandolfini; on what happens during fittings with actors; on "Tony Soprano's" robe; on David Chase directing the pilot and what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director; on how working on The Sopranos pilot impacted her career
Chapter 2
On her work as costume designer of season one of Justified; on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects
On her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively
On her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale; on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show; on how she first got involved with the show; on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders; on some of the inspirations for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale
Chapter 3
On additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale -- wanting to give the Commanders' wives something special; on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale; on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively; on the obi in the Handmaids' costumes
On additional elements of Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale -- wings, cape, boots, and winter and summer versions of the costumes; on costume designs for season two of The Handmaid's Tale -- her inspiration for the Unwomen and the Econopeople
On how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests; on speaking at the United Nations in relation to her work on The Handmaid's Tale and her own personal journey as a survivor; on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian
Chapter 4
On costume design for Pan Am, which was set in 1963 -- on her research for the costumes, making a lot of costumes herself, period-accurate undergarments, and how budgets impact her work; on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows
On her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify; on her parents visiting the set
On her work as costume designer on Masters of Sex; on research for the show; on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford; on designing for and working with Michael Sheen and Allison Janney; on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex
On how she became the costume designer for season one of Westworld; on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character; on "Dolores'" two main looks and a third that never saw the light of day; on Delos headquarters in Westworld and what it meant to her to design Samurai costumes
Chapter 5
On the role of a costume designer; on the fight for pay equity for costume designers; on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production
On her then-current project: designing for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas
On working on dystopian and utopian projects; on how television has changed since she first started in the industry; on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews
On advice to aspiring costume designers; on the value of oral histories; on where she sees herself in ten years
Shows
Captain Kangaroo
Ane Crabtree on the first clothing items she ever made -- clogs made out of milk cartons -- thanks to how-to instructions from Captain Kangaroo
Handmaid's Tale, The
Ane Crabtree on her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show
Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders
Ane Crabtree on some of the inspirations for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale -- wanting to give the Commanders' wives something special
Ane Crabtree on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on the obi in the Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on additional elements of Handmaids' costumes for The Handmaid's Tale -- wings, cape, boots, and winter and summer versions of the costumes
Ane Crabtree on costume designs for season two of The Handmaid's Tale -- her inspiration for the Unwomen
Ane Crabtree on costume designs for the Econopeople in season two of The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Ane Crabtree on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian
Justified
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer of season one of Justified
Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects
Luck
Ane Crabtree on Michael Mann sending her to research gamblers for her work on Luck
Masters of Sex
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on Masters of Sex
Ane Crabtree on her research for Masters of Sex
Ane Crabtree on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex
Pan Am
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am
Ane Crabtree on making a lot of costumes for Pan Am herself
Ane Crabtree on period-accurate undergarments on Pan Am
Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces
Rectify
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify
Sopranos, The
Ane Crabtree on becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office
Ane Crabtree on collaborating with other departments to finalize costume designs for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on her first meeting with James Gandolfini for The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks
Ane Crabtree on David Chase directing The Sopranos pilot
Ane Crabtree on how working on The Sopranos pilot impacted her career
Swift Justice
Ane Crabtree on her first union job as a costume designer in television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job
Ane Crabtree on the pace of working on Swift Justice
Westworld
Ane Crabtree on how she became the costume designer for season one of Westworld
Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character
Ane Crabtree on "Dolores'" two main looks on Westworld, and a third that never saw the light of day
Ane Crabtree on Delos headquarters in Westworld and what it meant to her to design Samurai costumes
Topics
Advice
Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin
Classic TV Series Episodes
Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks
COVID-19 Pandemic
Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production
Drama
Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks
Health and Medicine
Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production
Historic Events and Social Change
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am and researching JFK's death
Ane Crabtree on where she was when the COVID-19 pandemic occurred and how it impacted production
Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews
JFK Assassination and Funeral
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of Pan Am and researching JFK's death
Memorable Moments on Television
Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks
Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character
MeToo Movement
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Pivotal Career Moments
Ane Crabtree on her inspiration for the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale
Pop Culture
Ane Crabtree on "Tony Soprano's" robe in The Sopranos pilot and on "Tony" feeding the ducks
Representation on Television
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews
Television Industry
Ane Crabtree on how television has changed since she first started in the industry
Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews
Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin
Underrepresented Voices
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Ane Crabtree on how opportunities have changed since she started in the industry and on the importance on having multi-racial crews
Women
Ane Crabtree on her research for the costumes of The Handmaid's Tale, how she was impacted by the subject matter of the show, and design ideas for the Handmaids, Econopeople, Guardians, Aunts, and Commanders
Ane Crabtree on how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Professions
Costume Designer
Ane Crabtree on what happens during costume fittings with actors
Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director
Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on her early interest in costume and fashion design
Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects
Ane Crabtree on her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively
Ane Crabtree on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows
Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces
Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer
Ane Crabtree on the fight for pay equity for costume designers
Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin
Designers
Ane Crabtree on what happens during costume fittings with actors
Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director
Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on her early interest in costume and fashion design
Ane Crabtree on the beginnings of her wall of research on Justified -- something that she's continued to do on subsequent projects
Ane Crabtree on her process when she first reads a script, on how she finds creative ideas and how listening to music helps her creatively
Ane Crabtree on how she decompresses after emotionally taxing work -- getting away during filming of The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on assembling her team for a show and differences between New York and LA shows
Ane Crabtree on how budgets impact her work, particularly on Pan Am, and on shopping for vintage pieces
Ane Crabtree on the role of a costume designer
Ane Crabtree on the fight for pay equity for costume designers
Ane Crabtree on advice to aspiring costume designers -- which includes advice from Patti Smith, William S. Burroughs, and Rick Rubin
Directors
Ane Crabtree on what makes a good relationship between a costume designer and a director
Genres
Drama Series
Ane Crabtree on her first union job as a costume designer in television -- Swift Justice
Ane Crabtree on her work as the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos;
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer of season one of Justified
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on seasons one and two of The Handmaid's Tale
Ane Crabtree on additional secrets that she built into the costumes on The Handmaid's Tale, her designs for season two of the show, how Gilead in The Handmaid's Tale is similar to present day, and how costumes similar to those she designed began to be worn at political protests
Ane Crabtree on costume design for Pan Am, which was set in 1963
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify, and on her parents visiting the set
Ane Crabtree on costume design for Masters of Sex; on often working on the first or first and second seasons of shows and why she left Masters of Sex
Sci-Fi/Supernatural Series
Ane Crabtree on costume designs for season one of Westworld
People
Darren Aronofsky
Ane Crabtree on her then-current project: designing for Darren Aronofsky's Postcard from Earth at the Sphere in Las Vegas
Beatrice Arthur
Ane Crabtree on Bea Arthur being an inspiration for the Aunts' costumes on The Handmaid's Tale
Michelle Ashford
Ane Crabtree on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford about designing for Masters of Sex and why she wanted to work on the show
Ane Crabtree on meeting with showrunner Michelle Ashford to create original pieces that would enhance the story for Masters of Sex
Margaret Atwood
Ane Crabtree on a beautiful moment on The Handmaid's Tale: dressing Magaret Atwood as an Aunt on the show, and Margaret's response to her costume
Lorraine Bracco
Ane Crabtree on getting Yves Saint Laurent clothes for Lorraine Bracco's character, "Dr. Melfi" in The Sopranos pilot and how her outfits aligned with the color of her office
Madeline Brewer
Ane Crabtree on working with Madeline Brewer (who played "Janine") on The Handmaid's Tale
David Chase
Ane Crabtree on meeting with David Chase and becoming the costume designer for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on David Chase sending her to New Jersey to do research for the pilot of The Sopranos
Ane Crabtree on David Chase directing The Sopranos pilot
James Gandolfini
Ane Crabtree on her first meeting with James Gandolfini for The Sopranos
Walton Goggins
Ane Crabtree on costume design for Walton Goggins' character on Justified
Allison Janney
Ane Crabtree on designing for Allison Janney on Masters of Sex
Lisa Joy
Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character
Don Kurt
Ane Crabtree on her first union job in television -- Swift Justice -- and Don Kurt hiring her for the job
Ane Crabtree on Don Kurt hiring her to work on Justified and on her approach to the show
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify and working with Don Kurt and Ray McKinnon
Warren Littlefield
Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale - via Bruce Miller and Warren Littlefield
Michael Mann
Ane Crabtree on Michael Mann sending her to research gamblers for her work on Luck
Ray McKinnon
Ane Crabtree on her work as costume designer on the first season of Rectify and working with Don Kurt and Ray McKinnon
Bruce Miller
Ane Crabtree on how she first got involved with The Handmaid's Tale - via Bruce Miller and Warren Littlefield
Reed Morano
Ane Crabtree on choosing the teal and red colors for the costumes for the Commanders' Wives and the Handmaids, respectively, on The Handmaid's Tale
Elisabeth Moss
Ane Crabtree on first meeting Elisabeth Moss for costume fittings for The Handmaid's Tale, on the music she played during the fitting, and her approach to costumes for the show
Ane Crabtree on Elisabeth Moss' costume from The Handmaid's Tale now being part of the permanent collection of the Smithsonian
Jonathan Nolan
Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character
Timothy Olyphant
Ane Crabtree on costume design for Timothy Olyphant's character on Justified
Alik Sakharov
Ane Crabtree on learning about color from director of photography Alik Sakharov for the pilot of The Sopranos
Michael Sheen
Ane Crabtree on designing for and working with Michael Sheen (who played "William Masters") on Masters of Sex
Jimmi Simpson
Ane Crabtree on transforming "William" into "The Man in Black" on Westworld and how far in advance she knew they were the same character
Yvonne Strahovski
Ane Crabtree on hiding actress Yvonne Strahovski's real-life pregnancy on The Handmaid's Tale
Evan Rachel Wood
Ane Crabtree on "Dolores'" two main looks on Westworld, and a third that never saw the light of day